Friday, 18 August 2017

The marvellous Kalle shirt in merlot linen


After my mixed feelings on my green Closet Case Carolyn pyjamas, I already had the Kalle shirt pattern downloaded and stuck together. The merlot linen was purchased from Edinburgh Fabrics for about £14 a metre, prewashed and I was good to go. I absolutely love the finished shirt! This is a great pattern and produces a lovely garment with a high quality finish both on the outside and inside. 

Now, as I show you these photos of my tunic/shirt, keep in mind that I'm 5'9" tall (or 1.75m for metric folk) and remember, I didn't add any length to this. In fact, what you see is the size 14 sewn up without any alterations made to the pattern. At all. Heather's advice was choose the size based on the bust measurement, so that's what I did. Good advice.


I tried the burrito method of encasing the yoke and this time it worked out for me, although it was very strange and took some figuring out. Just do what the instructions tell you, look at the diagrams and put your trust in Heather's knowledge. The first time I tried it, on a muslin for the Kelly anorak which may or may not get sewn this year, it didn't work out and the shoulder seams were on the outside. Ah well, that's what a muslin's for, isn't it?


For the hem, I didn't want to make bias binding from this fabric. It would be too rigid and too bulky. I tried the baby hem, as suggested in the pattern but like Goldilocks, this just wasn't right either and didn't sit well at the hip curve. So I used the front and back pattern pieces to cut 3" wide facings. I overlocked the side seams together, then finished the top edge with the overlocker. I then joined the facing to the hem with the overlocker, turned the facing to the inside and topstitched about 2.5" from the finished edge. It's worked beautifully and adds some weight to the hem which gives it a certain movement that you can feel when walking. I think this treatment suits a heavier fabric like linen and I'd do it again.

I used black iron-on lightweight interfacing on the collar and button and buttonhole bands. I was swithering between lightweight and medium-weight but I reckoned I could do two layers of lightweight if it was too insignificant. I'm so glad I went with one layer of lightweight. It's beefy enough on the linen but isn't too rigid, thank goodness. I don't like seeing collars that 'fly' due to heavy interfacing.


I love the buttons. I finished the shirt and had a good investigation of my button tin but nothing grabbed me. So I took the shirt and went off to Edinburgh Fabrics where I found these little beauties. They're just right for this shirt! The collar is also the right size for me to wear it comfortably buttoned up, which is a new look for me. I like it!


Currently the shirt is on a wash and wear cycle, which says it all really. I could also be frantically trying to wear it as much as I can before summer ends which in Scotland will be in about two weeks time! Did I say I love this shirt?

9 comments:

  1. Lovely! Excellent choice on the hem facing, too--I wondered how yours looked so impeccably curved and smooth. =) I really like the proportion of the back pleat, it suits the shirt (and the wearer!) very well.

    -Abbey

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, I just couldn't figure out how to get the hem smooth without losing the curve. It didn't actually take much time at all to do so I'd recommend this method to anyone struggling with their hem. Anything to make life easier!

      Delete
  2. Replies
    1. Hi Faye and thanks! I think the lovely result of the finished shirt shows that I need to slow down and take my time with my makes. Go for a quality finish rather than churning out lots of items. The buttons make this shirt too, though.

      Delete
  3. Classy looking shirt--and the color suits you beautifully!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Elle and yes, I absolutely love this colour. This is also a garment that you can throw on and with an accessory or two bingo, you've got an outfit that looks really well put together. I love it!

      Delete
  4. Great shirt and I love the color on you.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi and thanks for your comments. I love how this worked out without any adjustments, something totally unheard of for me. Usually I need to add length somewhere. I love this colour and love the fact I've made a plain coloured item. I need more plain coloured things in my wardrobe but I do like a good colourful print!

      Delete
  5. nice article great post comment information thanks for sharing.
    ลา ลีกา สเปน

    ReplyDelete