Wednesday, 14 January 2015

Square top...kind of!

I love the fabric! I decided to sew an old favourite pattern that I've sewn before herehere and perhaps less successfully hereSimplicity 1364. It's a reproduction vintage pattern from the 1970's but as I've obviously sewn it up so many times before, I don't feel it counts towards my vintage pattern sewing pledge!

So, easy pattern choice and I've sewn it quite a few times before but this fabric is quite fine. Because of the pattern I cut out each piece on a single layer in an attempt at better pattern matching than I've been doing up to now. Not difficult! Cutting took ages and I went a bit cross-eyed after staring at the pattern repeat for a good few hours.

Sharp eyed readers will see that I haven't finished the hem in the photo on the right. I grabbed my photographer as the light was reasonable, probably due to the blizzard outside which didn't half increase light levels inside! I have now finished the top and it's now had its final press and is hanging in my wardrobe.

Back to pattern matching. I have to show you the evidence of improved pattern matching. See how I didn't use the word 'perfect' there? Just managing your expectations! There is a zip in the centre back seam and I've done a good job at sewing it in. I just haven't managed to do up the hook and eye at the top. At least I've sewn them on though and that must be one of my least favourite jobs.Far too fiddly!

There are two places where the pattern match goes a bit off but hey ho, it took me ages to work it out with the long zip, plus a lot of hand basting. There's room for improvement!

I have to confess a bit of a 'challenge' with the back seam as I'd cut the two back pieces separately. Trying to work out the pattern match, anticipate how the zip was going in and adding a seam allowance to the pattern matching, all took their toll on my by that time frazzled brain. One of the edges had a miniscule seam allowance of barely 1/8". Not enough especially where there was a zip going in. So, I cut two strips of fabric and sewed it to the back edges, kind of like a facing, and then added the zip. A bit of a bodge job but it's better to do something now than have to try and repair a mess in the near future.

I also used facings to finish the neck because the fabric is finer and I though it would make it all sit better. I used ultra-light iron-on interfacing and that was the right choice for the fabric. I have to say that the facings may provide extra support to the neck area but they don't give a better finish than self-made bias binding. I think I'll revert to making my own bias binding the next time, because there will be a next time. I love this style and want to explore perfecting it. Maybe I'll add the belt the next time I make this, depending on the fabric.

Anyone else tried this pattern? I think it's one I'll be sewing for years as it's so versatile, especially if I can perfect it!

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