Black 'Ultimate' Trousers

Black trousers....em...difficult to photograph

Have you sewn a pair of 'Ultimate' trousers yet? I've finally got round to finishing my first pair. I can now see why everyone's loving them! I bought the pattern through John Lewis with their very handy Click and Collect service.

So, how did I get on with trousers for normal height people? Basically I measured all the important bit and compared with the pattern envelope, which extremely helpfully gives you the finished inside leg measurement, hurray! not all patterns do this. I added 1" to the length of the rise and a total of 6", yes that's six inches, to the leg length. Just to be clear, I split this leg lengthening to 3" above the knee and 3" below the knee.

I chose a 97% cotton 3% lycra fabric, to me it seems like it's bordering on a denim and would be suitable for jeans. I just wanted a little bit of stretch for comfort plus the benefit of better recovery in bum and knee areas.

These are fitted trousers with a side zip and waist facings. There's nothing complicated about them apart from getting the fit right, something that's worth spending time on. I did and it paid off.

View of the insides!

The body fit is good but I feel the legs could be cut in a size smaller next time, and yes there will be a next time for these trousers. The only thing I need to alter is where I add the additional leg length because I don't feel like I've added enough length above the knee. I find it really difficult working out where the knee is on the pattern, any ideas how to do this 'cos I'm a bit stuck? When I'm walking, I can feel the upper thigh dragging a bit so I wonder if the length from body to knee is just a smidgeon short? That's my best guess so if anyone knows better, please let me know.

Reasonably good darts & waist facings top-stitched

I'm wearing these trousers today on their maiden voyage along with my Julia cardigan and it's great having an almost complete me-made outfit. Love it! So it's a good sign that whatever is wrong with my leg lengthening isn't putting me off wearing them. I like neat, simple trousers like these so I will make more of them, in fact there's the stone coloured version of this fabric at home, just crying out to be made into a pair! Anyone else got a pair of Ultimate trousers made for the summer?

Me Made May 2015 round-up

Just the last few days of Me Made May 2015 to blog about and it's been great. I've thoroughly enjoyed participating in it and want to do it again next year! It's made me wear some things that I hadn't worn for a while. It was a bit of a chore at the start to remember to take a photo each day but then it just became a habit. I almost miss it now. Here's what I wore the last few days of the challenge:

Flowery blouse and hey, it's the magenta scarf!

This was Saturday's outfit, plus a pair of RTW jeans. No magenta scarf!

And the last item was this top. And another afternoon of sewing. Great!











So, was it successful? My pledge was:

I, Joyce, of The Story Sew Far blog, sign up as a participant of Me-Made-May 2015. I endeavour to wear 4 me-made items each week for the duration of May 2015.

Yes, I did it! And I'm quite proud I managed it although I knew there would be a lot of repetition. I also managed to wear other me-made garments, my nightshirt, pyjamas, black fleece, navy fleece, Vogue jacket and Yona jacket, but didn't photograph them for Me Made May 2015. Sadly, yes, the weather is still wool jacket weather!

Holes in my wardrobe:

• trousers
• tops
• more blouses as I enjoy wearing my flowery
  blouse
• I suppose some skirts but I don't feel they are really a priority
• more jackets for spring and autumn
• winter pyjamas

Better get sewing, then!

Short PJs

After last year's holiday when we went to very sunny Spain and sweltered in 44 degree heat (even the Spaniards were wilting!) I decided to make some shorts pyjamas for this year's holiday. Well, actually, confession time, this is also a refashion of a partly-finished top, shoved in the bottom of the sewing box from last year (unblogged).

Both fabrics are 100% cotton. the top is a slightly thicker cotton and the shorts are cotton poplin. I used the shorts pattern from the Kwik Sew 2811 pattern I used for these pyjamas . They are simple elastic waist shorts so nothing complicated and very quick to sew. I added about an inch to the length of the legs.

The top was the re-fashioned item. I had cut out a kimono sleeved, very simple shaped top and even got as far as sewing up the shoulder and side seams and attaching the neck facings. Then stopped. I just didn't like it. Sometimes you just get that feeling, don't you? I then shoved it in my sewing box and left it, waiting for inspiration so I could decide what to do with the fabric. Then the pyjama inspiration! I took the partly finished top and cut out a New Look pattern I already own. I can't find the pattern on the New Look website so it's probably out of print now.

So, the top has a scoop neck which has gathers at the front neckline, for about 3" or so. I decided I couldn't be bothered didn't want to sew facings for the neck and armholes so I used some black satin bias binding I already had to finish those edges. For the body hem I cut rounded edges for a more sporty look, you know! I sewed 2cm from the edge, turned twice and pressed before machine stitching the hem. There aren't any tailoring techniques used in these garments! They're for summer holidays and let's face it, it rarely gets warm enough in Scotland to wear these.

It's been satisfying sewing up pjs that I will need and also using fabric and patterns I already have. And I've used an unfinished garment stuffed at the bottom of my sewing box!

Magenta Mousehouse Julia cardigan

I've been trying to fill a huge gap in my wardrobe for summer cardigans but finding sewing patterns is quite difficult as there aren't many out there. Maybe when I get a few more under my belt I can make some for autumn/winter using more expensive fabrics containing wool. So that was the cunning plan!

I bought the Julia cardigan pattern from Mousehouse. It's the first digital pattern I've bought and I have to say printing and taping it together wasn't too bad an experience. Just read the instructions first, make sure your printer is set up correctly and measure the test square. Simple, really.

I chose a magenta coloured 100% viscose fabric and pre-washed it. It didn't half have a life of its own when I was cutting it out! It was really difficult making sure it sat correctly and that I was cutting a reasonably even edge. Having said that, because it's a jersey there's no seam finishing required. Hurray! So I just trimmed the seams to about 6mm and pressed them. The cardigan took last Sunday afternoon to cut out and sew together, so all in all, about 4 or 5 hours of sewing at my own pace.

 Here's an action shot of me wearing my new cardigan. I made the long sleeved double band version. It's quite a fabric-hungry pattern, I think I used about 2.5m of 150cm wide fabric. I didn't add any length to the body of the sleeves and ended up cutting off about 4cm from each sleeve before attaching the cuffs. Those are long sleeves, people! The shawl collar and edge are finished off with long bands of fabric, difficult to explain and much easier to understand when you're sewing it up. I used my sewing machine throughout and tested my zigzag stitch/tension on scraps until it was right.


I like the style of this cardigan, love the colour and the fact it has a collar. The shoulder seams sit just right on me and I really like the fit of it. It's quite long at the back, as you can see, remember that I didn't add any length to the body and I'm 5'9" tall. So that's something to think about if you're planning on making it...

So, all in all, a great pattern and I didn't need to make any lengthening adjustments. Hurray! I'll be making more of these in different colours in the future. I've already bought the Burdastyle Karen pattern so that's probably next on my cardigan-making list. Just need to buy some fabric...!

Me Made May - Week 4

Hi everyone and I have to report that I'm finally getting the hang of Me Made May...just as the end of the month comes into sight! Anyway, here's my week in me-made clothing. Brace yourselves.

Last Saturday I met a friend for lunch. This was obviously taken before she arrived, but the restaurant had a very convenient, and sometimes very distracting when you're eating, mirrored wall. Great for Me Made May selfies to prove I was wearing my 'Disco-tastic' top.

Astoundingly, the weather was so good last Saturday I was able to wear my new green linen Minoru jacket on its maiden voyage. I received, on separate occasions and in different locations, compliments from 2 'Young People' (at least half my age) who admired my new Minoru. I was flabbergasted...but well chuffed!

...and proof it does get sunny enough to wear sunglasses in Scotland! Also proof that I wore the two garments together. I think I'm waiting for the bus in St Andrew Square here.

On Sunday the weather was 'less good' so after heading to the supermarket, it was head down for an afternoon of sewing. I'm wearing my black bamboo top ('The Sewing Tip' in the background. Using this definition of the word 'tip').


On Monday it was the turn of my green squares top. I don't think I've worn that in May before.


Tuesday is swimming lesson day so a quick-change is required. Enter stage left, the printed jersey top, seen before in Me Made May but I do like it.

Wednesday was when I realised I'd already worn 4 items in the week so had theoretically met my pledge, but no, I was on a roll! So, coming up on the inside is a new and as yet unblogged garment, the Mousehouse Julia Cardigan. I'd finished it on Sunday and foolishly thought it would be warm enough to wear. It wasn't...

I wore a short sleeved top underneath and this coincided with the day my work decided to turn off the heating. Because it's summer. Don't they know it's Scotland?

Anyway, you also get to see another scarf from my collection. I call it my Gyspy Rose Lee (now there's an interesting woman!) scarf because it has roses and hundreds of tiny sequins sewn into it that shed all over the place.

And that brings us to today. Well, I haven't worn my magenta scarf all week so it had to make an appearance or you'd think something had happened to it! I'm also dressing more warmly today. On the way home I'd have paid someone for a pair of gloves. Really, I was that cold! However the magenta scarf goes well with this flowery blouse.

And of course, I've been wearing my me-made pyjamas and jackets throughout this week too. I have to confess I wore a RTW jacket on Wednesday.



So, what have I learn this week?

• After a severe talking to last week, I made the Julia cardigan to start filling a gap in my wardrobe. I liked wearing a different coloured cardigan and I'd like to use this pattern again.
• I'd like to make another blouse using the same pattern as the flowery blouse. It's good having a blouse that fits properly everywhere! 
• Still need some summer trousers
• Still need some summer skirts
• Still need an intermediate jacket or coat 

I think a month is a good length of time to do this as the routine sets in. It also makes you reach automatically for the me-made items when getting dressed in the morning. How are you getting on with Me Made May?

Minoru!

It's a wonder this hasn't been on BBC news, but I have finished, and worn (yes, the weather was spring-like on Saturday, but only Saturday, mind!),  my first Sewaholic Minoru jacket. It's in dark green 100% linen which I bought from Stone Fabrics after getting quite a few swatches. I seriously like the fabrics in that shop and will definitely be buying from them again. The free swatch service is great and although you can't order online, ordering by phone is easy-peasy. The fabric arrived very quickly.

I obviously pre-washed the linen and steam pressed it. The outer fabric was ready, but what about the lining? I did think about lining it in silk but ended up buying from John Lewis what was left on the bolt of the viscose I used to make this top. And again pre-washed it before cutting out. It is a perfect match for the linen, I think. Here's a flash of the lining, ha ha!

I made a muslin to check the fit and trial some adjustments. I did a 2" FBA as this pattern is drafted for pear shaped folk and I am not. Actually I'm not sure I needed to bother because this is very roomy. I also decided to continue the gathers at the neck along to the front centre bands. It just looked odd on the muslin to have then stopping before this.

I also added welt pockets. Got to have somewhere to put my phone and hands!

Didn't add the inside pockets. I also reduced the height of the collar by 1", it would just get covered in make-up otherwise.

I didn't add the sleeve cuffs. I have really long arms, matches my tendency towards 'long', and these sleeves were so long I just hemmed and topstitched. That's seriously long sleeves, people! Here's a photo of the sleeve hem treatment:

I didn't add anything to the length of the jacket body either but for some reason the front bands were too short in the muslin, I don't know why! So in the linen I just cut them as long as I could make them. The zip is the stated length on the pattern, a 30" open ended one. Getting the right zip was sooo difficult! It looks terrible in this photo but in real life the colour matches the textured weave bits on the linen and looks fine.


The green is so difficult to photograph and looks different in every photo! The top photo is probably the most real-life!

I love how the linen behaves with the elastic in the back. It seems to form softer gathers.

So, time for the round-up. I suspect this jacket will be a bit 'Marmite' for people, you'll either love it or hate it. I didn't press the jacket when it was finished, just wore it so that must be a good sign. Don't think I'll bother either as that's part of the charm of linen.

I also think the dark green makes me look like I'm off to a World War 1 re-enactment!


Here is the jacket out on its maiden voyage on Saturday, near St Andrew Square in Edinburgh, just to prove there was some sunshine about! I'm also looking slightly stunned as two Young People complemented me on my jacket in the morning. Just about fell over. Twice. And was almost speechless!
Right, now that I've lured you in by lots of colour photos and witty chat (hopefully!), it's now Confession time. I added interfacing to the collar and front bands. The pattern says just the front bands but the collar didn't stand up enough as I wanted it to. So, with interfacing the collar didn't sit right when it was unzipped. Can't win! So I ripped off the upper layer of the interfacing and enough stayed behind to stand up right. Result! It was just right.

But the biggest confession is that I got too carried away trimming my hem and cut away too much. Had to put a patch on either side:

*sigh*

Until the next time...which could be the big feathers skirt. You're warned but it still won't prepare you for what's to come!

Me Made May - Week 3

Let the repetition begin! Here's my roundup of week 3-

This is an interesting one because Me Made May has made me wear it for the first time. I'm not sure why I haven't worn it since I first made it, perhaps it looks too 'Christmas-y' with the red and green?

Either way, it's 100% cotton and lovely to wear. I don't think it'll ever become my favourite but I'm not getting rid of it. It's Paisley pattern, after all!

So this is what I wore last Saturday daytime.

I went out for dinner on Saturday night and forgot to take my photo. So you'll have to make do with this 'from my blog' photo of the me-made top I wore.

Now, here's the story...we don't get the May holidays at the beginning and end of May. Instead we get an extra-long long weekend in the middle of May and get the Monday and Tuesday off. Nope doesn't make sense to me either but I'm not going to argue with a couple of days off!

So, here I am, about to do a day's sewing, see the sewing machine ready for action in the corner! I'm wearing my black bamboo top. Love the fabric! I wish they did patterned/printed bamboo, I know it's not cheap but it's far superior to cotton, lovely silky smooth finish to it and it's breathable. Apparently it's also more environmentally friendly than cotton to produce. I didn't go out of the house all day, just stayed inside and sewed. Bliss!

I stayed inside the house and sewed all day until I had to head out for my swimming lesson. Here's me taking a sneaky photo while in a changing cubicle of the pool. I'm wearing my most recent top, I love the colours in it.

No, I didn't change into a me-made swimsuit. To be honest I can't be bothered to make something that will only last me about 12 months before the lycra gets eaten away by the chlorine. And that's with chlorine-resistant fabric. I don't have a lot of time that I can sew so I'm not wasting it (my personal viewpoint!) sewing swimwear. Or underwear either, but let's not stray too far down that road.

Wednesday meant back to work and what I call my Hornel top because it reminds me of the paintings of E A Hornel. He was an artist who lived in Kirkcudbright (pronounced Kirk-koo-brae) in the south west of Scotland at the end of the 19th/beginning of the 20th century. I was born in the area (not at that time) and spent the formative years of my life there. Some of his works have a strong Japanese influence but he also painted Scottish scenes too. The pattern on this top reminds me of his treatment of flowers in some of his paintings, just in case you were wondering where all this was going!

He was associated with the 'Glasgow Boys' and we saw lots of their paintings at Kelvingrove Museum and Gallery when we were in Glasgow last month. You can also visit Hornel's House in Kirkcudbright too. There, I've (unexpectedly!) done my bit for tourism in Scotland.

So, back to me Made May! Lessons learnt this week-

• I have been wearing quite a few items that I haven't worn for a few months, or indeed ever.
• Still need 'bottoms'!
• Need some outerwear for when the weather gets warmer (will it ever?!?)
• Need some cardigans too

What I need to do now -

• take some photos of my now completed green linen Minoru jacket and blog it
• get on and finish the black stretch cotton Ultimate trousers
• get started the stone coloured stretch cotton Ultimate trousers
• finish the large multicoloured feathers skirt (and I mean 'LARGE' feathers)
• cut out the magenta viscose fabric for a Julia cardigan (this item has parachuted in and jumped to the top of my sewing list!)   

Better go and earn some more fabric tokens at work. I'll be back.