The Afternoon Tea Blouse for Me Made May

Here is my second garment worn to meet my Me Made May pledge of wearing a seldom or never worn garment. I made the Oliver and S Afternoon Tea Blouse in autumn last year and I think the last time I wore it was in November. Is it a hit or a miss? For me, definitely a big hit!

As you can see, I made it in one fabric throughout because I think the seam lines need to be shown off. It's a lovely top but choosing the correct size will get you the correct shoulder fit which I think is crucial for this style of top. I made a muslin and managed to nail the shoulder fit first time around. I did a Full Bust Adjustment but can't remember if I lengthened the body. Probably, as I'm 5'9" tall, or 1.75m.

The style of blouse, for me, isn't suitable for work wear really, so that's partly why it hasn't been worn for a few months.

The fabric is a lovely maroon-chestnut colour that I absolutely love but that's difficult to photograph. It's a surprisingly heavy, drapey viscose crepe bought last year from the Clothspot. Sadly, I think it's sold out. So, even if you hang the top to dry on a hanger, you'll still have to do some intricate ironing to get rid of some stubborn creases but it's worth the effort.

My advice to anyone making up this pattern is to follow the instructions to the letter, and to mark your fabric pieces after you've cut them out as the front pieces are very similar to the back pieces. I did all this and was fine but I can see that cutting corners would be risky!

Is it a keeper? Yes! It's been washed and is just waiting for the intricate ironing before I hang it up in the wardrobe again. I'm really enjoying my challenge! It's refreshing to wear something different and rediscovering my garments as I get stuck in a rut in winter just trying to keep warm and neglect some lovely garments hanging in my wardrobe.

The same but slightly different

Those of you with good memories might remember seeing this fabric from last year's post where I made a short sleeved Kalle shirt from the same fabric. I loved the fabric so much, I bought some more! I think it was under £7 a metre from the Cloth Spot.

As it's winter, I decided to make a long sleeved shirt and chose...the Deer and Doe Melilot. Again! There is a bit of dodgy sewing here and there but the 'exuberance' of the print hides almost all mistakes, so just for the fun of it, I'll point some of them out to you just to show that you can love a garment that isn't perfect. And yes, I do love this shirt.

I could do better when turning the edges of the cuffs. The wrong side is definitely showing by quite a lot. As I said, the print hides a multitude of sins!

The collar isn't my best sewing ever. Again I can see the under collar peeping out. I've got into the habit of sewing a button/buttonhole just under the collar stand to stop gaping in this area but there's still a little gaping here. I don't like that sugary pink colour so near my face. Just being picky here but obviously should have been more picky when I cut the upper collar piece from the fabric.

I love the little fish eye buttons, though. I usually buy 10 shirt buttons and also buy plain black shirt buttons when I come across them. I think I bought these from Edinburgh Fabrics where you can still buy buttons individually, from plastic tubes with screwtop lids. Construction was done on the overlocker and sewing machine.

And here's how I normally wear the shirt. Standing in the 'Naught Corner'! Ha ha! I'm trying not to wear black too much as it becomes a uniform and I just love the wine colour.

Much needed winter tops

With the recent chilly weather, I needed to sew some more tops for winter. You're getting two in this post today, you lucky things! They are both a similar shade of grey, which wasn't planned, so you'll need to pay close attention. This first one is the Sew House Seven Toaster...One, I think. This is a new to me pattern and I enjoyed the challenge of sewing a different collar shape. Here is the finished top work with a cosy scarf.

I bought the fabric years ago, possibly from Remnant Kings in Glasgow? I think it has some natural fibre but there's also man made but it's still comfortable to wear. 

Em...I sewed the lovely Audrey Hepburn-esque sixties stand-up neck...and didn't like how it sat on me. I thnk I have broad shoulders #swimmer. I used stretch iron on interfacing across the shoulder and all the way up the neck which worked well as I didn't think the fabric would stand up on its own. So...I didn't like it but wanted to rescue it so I cut the neckline from the top below, and sewed a neck band. That worked! I like the on-the-shoulder-sleeves and I don't think I added any length to them so beware if you have short or normal length arms, unlike my gorilla arms! 

The other think I like about this pattern is the split at the side seams and the back longer than the front. I was also trying out the zig-zag stitch on my new-16-months-ago computerised Janome sewing machine. So, all in all, a wearable if not perfect top that'll keep me cosy.

And here's another one! This one was made using a ponte fabric with a decent amount of viscose from the Cloth Spot and using the same traced off pattern as this top. 

The neck is a little narrower than the one on the Sew House Seven top above and I prefer this one. I'm not sure if you can see the subtle variegated pattern of greys in this fabric as these photos aren't great? 

So, two new grey tops for chilly weather and not exciting things to sew but very much needed for the winter. Are you sewing up anything essential but boring to get you through the winter?

Chilly weather top and infinity scarf

Well, the sewing has been happening it's just that the blogging about it hasn't! Sorry about that but I've also been sewing lots of repeats from the same patterns which have become real favourites. Just like today's post!

The weather has gone quite chilly and I needed some thicker-than-your-average-jersey-knit tops. I'm still funding the Cloth Spot with my purchases (thank you for the Christmas card!) and basically buy fabric when I see it. I should just set up a direct debit with them! I don't have a huge fabric stash as I generally sew it up quite soon after buying it.

So, here's today's offering. This is a top pattern that I traced from a favourite Marks & Spencer's old jersey top. I've made it before but with this top I decided to narrow the neck at the shoulder seams by 2cms and that's worked a treat. Much better fit with this.

I also guess-timated the neck band by measuring (very roughly) the neck opening circumference, then cutting the neck band 7/8th of this length. That's worked a treat too.

I had some fabric left as I'd bought my usual 2 metres so I decided to sew up an infinity scarf from the left-overs. I can loop it twice around my neck and it's super cosy.

I think there's quite  abit of natural fibre - viscose definitely, and possibly some cotton too, and something in it that's man made. It's an interesting fabric that sems to be made of two layers that are then loosely held together somehow. So, basically, you need to finish all those raw edges or it will come apart. I overlocked everything. It's the kind of fabric that doesn't need ironing and I've basically been washing and wearing it since I made it a couple of weeks ago.

It's a winner!

A wafty Kalle shirt

I know some of you live in hot climates and I also lived a few years in Italy, working in 44 degree heat, and this statement will make you laugh but yes, we're having a 'heatwave' in Scotland! It seems to be consistently at least 22 degrees or more and we're having a proper summer. Hurray! I love it and I'm also loving all the shirts I've made too. See what I did there? Here's another shirt I'm enjoying wearing...

It's a Closet Case Kalle shirt, I think it's in the tunic length. I haven't added any length and I'm 5' 9" tall. This pattern is a size 14 and no alterations made to pattern. The fabric is from Cloth Spot and seems to be sold out as I can't see it on their website. It's more of a lightweight viscose, and has all the lovely drape and hang you'd expect. It's lovely and wafty and cool to wear!

Getting the interfacing right was an interesting experience and a lesson in patience. But it's paid off and the collar sits beautifully. As the viscose is lightweight I used black iron-on ultra-soft interfacing. This still didn't have enough body for the collar to sit right or to provide enough reinforcement for the buttons and buttonholes. I cut another layer of the ultra-soft and ironed it on and that was perfect. It's sometimes a difficult thing to get right.  

This is a better image of the print even if the blue isn't blue enough. Nice horizontal stripe pattern matching in the front buttonhole band. I wasn't even going to try and pattern match the tiny motifs. Preferred to keep my sanity! It's good enough. The buttons were given to me by my mum and are a pearly white irridescent colour, set in antique dull brass coloured surrounds. I have no idea where she got them from and her button collection included some I remember seeing in the 1970's on clothing she sewed for me. There were only eight buttons and I'd love another one to put on the bottom of the shirt but they're such a good match to the shirt I really wanted to use them. 

I think there's still one more shirt to tell you about. You have been warned! I thin I made the black trousers I'm wearing in these photos. They were from a stretch cotton fabric from Cloth Spot. Using the Ultimate trouser pattern from Sew Over it. But black...so no point in photographing them. They get an honourable mention though. 

Till the next time! 

Monday bonus shirt day!

I know, I did say I'd be bringing you my new black corduroy quilted jacket I recently finished...but here's a bonus-post on my other favourite shirt pattern of the moment. Yes, it's the Closet Case Kalle shirt. Or to be exact, it's the tunic length. I just happened to take very quick photos of it on Saturday so here it it!

I absolutely love this pattern! It's so dramatic with the high-low front and back hem, the kimono sleeves finished with their tricky bands - got to match the notches and seams. I am 5'9" tall and I have not lenghthened or adjusted the pattern in any way. Just so you know if you're planning to make this and are not as tall as I am. Or perhaps taller than I am, either way! 

The fabric is a magnificent viscose bought from Clothspot, of course. This is such a lovely quality of fabric and is opaque. It's a medium weight viscose and I think it was under £10 a metre. I bought 2 metres and have a little bit left which will become pocket bags. I've been wearing it loads and if it's not in the wash or ironing pile, I'll be wearing it! 

The thing about a great pattern like the Kalle shirt is that you can make it may times and never get tired of it. I really like how different it it made in a draping fabric like this viscose, compared with a 'fabric with personality' like linen. I made a linen version last year and currently have a forest green length of linen which I've just pre-washed and ready to become a Kalle. So much fabric, so little time!

Shirts beautiful shirts!

...and I'm back! It's been such a long time since I blogged but I've still been sewing. I just don't like taking photos in winter and then get out of the habit altogether. So what have I been sewing? Lots and lots of duplicates. I seem to be on a shirt marathon at the moment. I love a good shirt! Especially the Deer and Doe Melilot. I've made lots of short and long sleeves versions but I'll restrict the fun today to the long sleeved ones. And reveal my latest addiction. To Clothspot. I found a link to them on the Diary of a Chain Stitcher's blog and of course clicked through, keen to find out about a new online fabric shop. It's marvellous! All the fabric I've bought from them is lovely, good quality and reasonably priced. Also, they have a lot of breathable fibres and also some good bottom weight fabrics that can be difficult to find. I've found that if I order before lunch, they'll post it out that afternoon and I usually get the fabric the next day. Brilliant! Nope, they haven't paid me to endorse their products etc.

Back to the shirts. This first one I call my 'Semaphore shirt' because it looks like lots of tiny semaphore flags. I bought this from...yes it was Clothspot. It's a lovely, medium weight opaque viscose that drapes beautifully. The buttons were from my button tin and are the same size but different shades of  dark mud. Whatever the colour, they're craftily hidden by the semaphore print. Along with the wonky stitching on the sleeve placket that you can't see even in the close-up below. Result!

I think I added an inch to the body length of the shirt and probably 2 cms to the sleeve length #sewingtall. I was feeling they needed a little more length and I think this was a good call. I'll do the same for future versions. Let's face it, I'm not going to stop my personal 'Melilot factory'. I love when I get the adjustments right and can just run off another garment without adjusting.

This green cotton lawn version I made with a fabric from John Lewis. I think it was about £16 a metre and not quite 150cms wide when I bought it last year. The colour in the above photo is true to life, the close up below is just weird! Anyone noticed how the fabric department in John Lewis Edinburgh store has plummeted downhill? I rarely go now, there's no incentive of great fabric to make the journey worthwhile. 

Anyway, this version was made before the semaphore version and obviously before the lengthening adjustments. It doesn't stop me wearing it as I love the print and the colour. Why is it so difficult to find green fabric?

Coming shortly, the black corduroy quilted jacket, perfect for the Scottish summer!