Spring sunshire and a flower top

Yes folks, it's spring in Edinburgh and today there was glorious sunshine. Yay! So after finishing my current project I decided to go outside and take some photos of it for this post. Lovely sunshine...but a biting cold wind...the things I do to try and make this blog just a bit better! Enough of my moaning, here's the finished top. I actually like the bleached out look to the background of these photos, am I weird?

The fabric has a lovely print, a kind of free-form cream, white, brown and beige flower and leaves and there's also a bit of lilac there in the shading too. All of this on a background of a not black but a very, very dark navy. If you put it against navy, it looks black, if you put it against black it looks navy. You know what I mean! And that's probably the reason why it was on sale at John Lewis a month or so ago. The print was also printed along both selvedges of the fabric. I basically bought a number of print repeats - one repeat for the front, two repeats for the sleeves and two repeats for the back as there's a zip in the back, the back seam is shaped and on top of that there's pattern matching to do. I don't think I did badly on the pattern matching. And I bought another repeat 'just in case'. 

This fabric was half price. And it's a decent thickness of probably polyester, nope, no natural fibres in this!That was a tricky one to lay out for cutting to get the pattern placement right. It was impossible to get both sleeves identical as you have to turn the pattern piece over for the second sleeve. You can see what I mean now that I've pointed it out. I had the fabric in a single layer when cutting out just so I could do the best I could for pattern placement. I feel that's worked out well. 

Which pattern did I use? None other than my favourite Simplicity1364. Looking back through my makes I see that I haven't used this pattern this year. Shock! It's high time I did, then. 

I'd just like you to know that I'm wearing RTW jeans in these photos. I played no part in the creation of these jeans! I have got some black stretch denim that's patiently waiting to be pre-washed before I dig out the Named Jamie jeans pattern again but I just know that the black dye from the fabric will dye everything else it's washed with so I'll wait till I build up a 'safe load'.

It's a holiday weekend so I was busy sewing today and there will be more sewing over the next few days too. Bliss! 

Grey marl cardigan...this one's for me

And how is everyone doing today? Just when you thought it was getting yawn-some boring around here with very practical garments and projects, here's a new to me pattern, fabric and style! I came to a sudden crisis point a few weeks ago when my beloved 100% merino wool RTW (but I still loved it!) cardigan developed a tiny hole in the back. Horror! A stitch in time saves nine so I carefully tried to darn the hole and for the most part it worked. Only to go into work the next day to discover there was actually a 3cm hole in one of the elbows!!! I admitted defeat and the merino cardi was retired.

Time to start wearing the grey marl one I'd made at christmas but needed a push to start wearing. Does this ever happen to you? I used Jalie Cocoon cardigan sewing pattern. This was the first time I've used a Jalie pattern and I like it. As with all patterns, it's important to measure yourself, which I did, before choosing what I thought would be the correct size. I cut out an X and added 4cm to the length, basing this on the torso measurement. I also like with Jalie how you can download the instructions sheet before buying the pattern. Avoids any nasty surprises! Looking at the photos I'm wondering if the X is a bit big for me?

I bought 2 meters of grey marl ponte from Edinburgh Fabrics. What usually puts me off ponte is that it's usually 100% man made fibres and I don't think it looks very good quality fabric for the most part. However, this one has a large percentage of viscose in it, I can't remember exactly how much, but it's enough to take away the man-made-ness of it. It's quite a dense fabric and has a bit of body to it. This is probably just as well as I didn't stabilise the shoulder seam. Mmm...we'll see over time if that was a good decision or not!

I find the sleeves feel a little bit short so I'll add an inch to the next one I make. The back is quite long but it does cover the back hems of some of my high-lo hemmed blouses so that's probably good. This was quite a simple pattern and a reasonably quick make.

I used my overlocker throughout and don't think I used my sewing machine at all. The wrong side of this fabric is black so I used black thread on my overlocker. All hems are finished by sewing on bands of fabric so the insides are really nicely neat and tidy. This is actually a fairly cosy cardigan so with the density of the fabric I don't think I'll be wearing it beyond spring.

I've actually cut out another one of these cardigans but in a wool/viscose/lycra mix which is thinner than this ponte but has more stretch. It'll be interesting to see what difference the change in fabric makes to the fit of the cardigan and the look of it. Well, hope this grey-ness wasn't too boring but I do love the drama of dolman sleeves so it was only a matter of time till I sewed up this pattern. What do you think of the pattern? Made any Jalie patterns at all?

PJ trousers and they're not even for me!

Settle in and get comfy, this is a long-ish story...picture it, Christmas 2014 (yes, that isn't a typo!). I gave C some fabric, elastic, the pattern and some thread to make up a very simple pair of pyjama trousers for lounging around the flat. He had previously said he wanted to learn how to make clothes but the reality was that he didn't have the time or it turns out, the inclination either. Anyway, I wasn't going to let that fabric go to waste so I pre-washed it. And it hung for about for months as other infinitely more interesting fabrics and patterns queue-jumped the boring, dull plain pj trousers that weren't even for me!

So by mid-February I thought I really should just go ahead and make them before the warmer weather (*chuckles to self*...this is Scotland, after all...maybe I mean slightly less cold weather...) sets in and C doesn't want to wear them any more. 

So, I used Simplicity 2116 and they were exactly what they promised to be, so easy. The fabric is a brushed cotton bought from Edinburgh Fabrics. They're a plain pair of pj trousers, nothing fancy, with an elasticated waist. I used the overlocker throughout the construction, except for sewing in the elastic and for the hems. These were a really quick make, cut out and sewn up in about 3 hours. I'm not the fastest sewist and I don't try to be. Otherwise Mistakes Happen (capital letters intentional). Mind you, mistakes happen now and then when I'm not trying to be fast, but there you go!

I measured the elastic around C and then machined the two edges together. Then I sewed the elastic directly onto the top of the waist edge. Then turned the top down over itself until the elastic is completely covered by fabric. Then I sewed the waistband casing. The rise on these trousers comes up quite high, even after treating the elastic and waist in this way. I could regret all this though, as C is now saying the elastic is too loose...I stretched it a good number of times before measuring it against him though. Well, looks like I'll need to get my seam ripper out!

So, in conclusion, this is a great pattern and very easy to sew up. There aren't many details on it at all, but the pay-off is that there's a good range of sizes and the pattern is unisex. 

I know I've posted quite a few not very interesting projects recently but I've felt like I've temporarily lost my enthusiasm for sewing more complicated garments. I just wanted some easy projects that I could finish in the short amount of time I've had recently for sewing. The temporary loss of 'sew-jo' seems to have hit quite a lot of sewing bloggers in the new year but they all seem to be getting over it. maybe it's a seasonal thing? 

At the weekend I sewed lots. I feel like I'm back in my groove now! I've finished my first Vintage Sewing Pattern Pledge of 2016...then promptly wore it so it's been washed and is now hanging up drying. I also finished a pair of grey Ultimate trousers and a pair of Named Jamie jeans (but in black needlecord fabric). All need photographing and blogging about. I feel like I should get my photography sorted out and improve the quality of the photos I take. I'm falling behind in photographing competed projects for this blog and there's a backlog to blog about. Here endeth my sewing confessions...for the moment anyway!

I'll be back!

Plain cream top

Hello folks and how's your week been? Mine's been busy but in a good way! I've sewn up quite a lot of things recently and I've built up a little backlog again. So you're going to get another post this week. What value! But it's a very plain cream top, you know, the kind of clothing you wear loads but that isn't very exciting to sew or indeed to read about on a blog? I guess I add everything to the blog because I like keeping track of what I've made. Aren't you lucky?!

Taa daa! Here's my cream top I made last weekend. I used the pattern I made from my favourite RTW top in this post and used some lovely bamboo fabric from Edinburgh Fabrics. This has about 2-3% lycra in it and the fabric is LOVELY. I've used bamboo before. Seriously, if you've never used it before, go on! Prewash it first though. I learnt that lesson the hard way! It was about £14 a metre and I bought 2 metres as per usual. Don't let the price put you off, this fabric is worth every single penny.

Isn't it funny that you can look at yourself in the mirror and think 'That top is great!' and then look at the photos and immediately see all the little tweaks you want to make when you sew the next version! Next time I'd sew the whole shoulder area and lower sleeves a bit tighter, I feel they're quite loose but they're not bad enough to make me re-sew them. Let's face it, they'd have to be pretty bad to make me do that!

I sewed seam tape to the shoulder seams to stabilise them. Construction-wise I used the overlocker wherever possible. For the neck band I cut a strip 26" long and cut 3" off it. I overlocked the short edges together (right sides together) and folded it in half. Then I tested the length of the band by pinning it around the neck to see if it would be a good fit. Adjust as required, is what I'd recommend! If your jersey has a lot of stretch or give in it, you may need to make the band shorter but if it doesn't have a lot of stretch, maybe keep it longer. It's a matter of trying it and adjusting and I feel this is true for whatever top where you're adding a jersey band to the neck.

The only place I used the sewing machine was to sew the sleeves and hem with a twin needle. Not a bad job, I'd say. I didn't use any interfacing or any other steps to prevent tunnelling and...I didn't get any tunnelling! And that's not something I can always say. I gave it a press after sewing.

So, that's my 'rather unexciting but probably will get worn useless' cream top. Anyone else been sewing something really useful but not that exciting? Now there's something that probably not may people want to admit to!

Experimental make-up bag

Bet the title got your attention! Normally I stick to making clothing but my tatty old scruffy make-up bag is definitely on its way out so I decided I should sew myself another one to replace it. Then my eye fell on a pair of old RTW jeans that I was going to throw out and I thought to myself, I could use some of that fabric from a less worn area and have a go at making a bag.

I googled make up bags and came across the Little boxy pouch post and followed the step by step tutorial. This tutorial is great! Here's my recycled denim experimental make-up bag in all its glory!

I changed my measurements from those in the tutorial as I wanted a bigger bag. I cut two pieces of fabric 12"x6" and by chance bought a tan 12" zip to tone in with my tan coloured contrast stitching. The bag has turned out longer than I wanted but C pounced on it and wants it as a pencil and pen case for his drawer at work. That's fine by me as I can make another next weekend and get it more the size I want. I will also sew in the zip a little differently, so you can see the exposed zip teeth and you get the benefit of the contrast in colour. I used a tan coloured 'normal' thread to sew in the zip. I had bought upholstery thread to have an experiment with, as my Machine hates topstitching thread and I'd heard upholstery thread was a good sub. It isn't. I tried altering the tension many ways. Still no! I quit while I still had my sanity intact! 

I mostly used the overlocker to construct this and obviously used the sewing machine to insert the zip. It's a fast make! I'll probably also add a lining in the next one although with the overlocker the innards are neat. And let's face it the the denim's been washed so many times that a handful of times more can't harm it at all! Have you ever sewn an experiment that worked great? Any non-clothing experiments? 

A hint of spring with a shirt full of flowers

Hi everyone and I wish I could say that spring was here in Edinburgh but...it's not! I've seen tiny snowdrops, the odd minute crocus and the best thing of all, it's getting lighter in the mornings now (hurray!) but it's still cold. Enter stage left a very flowery shirt just to cheer up the spirits.

I bought the fabric a few weeks ago from the sale in John Lewis in Edinburgh and paid about £8 a metre. I bought my usual 2 metres. This is a 100% viscose fabric but it's quite fine. I used my favourite shirt pattern ever, McCalls 6436 that I've made here, here and here and will doubtless make again in the future! There's a real addiction to this pattern going on here and I'm not giving it up! It's great to have a properly fitting shirt. The sleeves are long enough for me, the back fits perfectly across my broad back and the body length is just right. No flashing my bare back when I bend over!

I had a look through my button tin but couldn't find anything I really liked. There were plenty of OK buttons but nothing that managed to make its presence felt in amongst all these flowers! So I actually bought some. That's something I haven't done for a long time.

There is a pattern repeat but I didn't bother matching this when I cut it out. Who's going to notice? I applied iron-on interfacing to both pieces of the collar stand and collar just to give it the perfect 'body' to stand up properly but without being too stiff. I finished the shirt on Sunday and wore it to work on Monday. The sign of success! It's now 'in the wash'. These photos were (obviously!) taken at night when I got home and after a day wearing the shirt so because it's viscose there are wrinkles but...I don't care! And you can't see them in among the flowers. What do you think? A bit of brightness for a late winter's day? Do you wear colour to pep yourself up a bit?

A jazzy paisley patterned shirt and some black wool trousers

Yep, it's another one of those hi-lo hem shirts I made before and have washed and worn. Time to make another! The fabric is typically 'me'...loud with lots of colours and...look!..it's paisley pattern which I absolutely adore.

I bought this fabric from John Lewis in Oxford Street when we had out little holiday in London last November.I haven't seen it in the Edinburgh John Lewis so I'm glad I bought it when I saw it. I think there's a lot of viscose in it because although it's lovely and silky to the touch it crushes as soon as your head's turned. I can't even remember the cost per metre but I know I bought my default 2 metres. It takes that much to make a shirt for tall, long-armed me and I also wanted room for manoeuvre with pattern placement. This fabric was a fray-er to work with, though!

I used New Look 6374 and cut view A. I didn't change add any length to the body and I think I may just have added 1" to the sleeve length, I can't remember as I cut and sewed this up during the Christmas and New Year break. Yes, it's taken this long to get round to taking photos! Mind you, I've also had a stonker of a cold and bad cough which everyone seems to have had, so I haven't sewn a thing for 2 whole weeks. I must have been seriously ill!

The sleeves are supposed to roll up and button with a tab. I managed to sew one tab on the inside of the sleeve and the other tab on the outside of the sleeve. Numpty! The lurid pattern must have dazzled my eyes...that's my excuse! Anyway, I unpicked the 'wrong' one and haven't got round to unpicking the other one as I've now decided I won't be rolling these sleeves up. Lazy!

The other mistake I made was to use a woven fusible interfacing on the collar stand. That thing just isn't going anywhere! I used the same interfacing on the plackets but it doesn't seem too bad. Live and learn, people! It hasn't stopped me wearing the shirt though so that's fine. 

Right, I'm going to tag on a pair of black trousers I made recently to this post because...they're black and almost impossible to make them look interesting in photographs. The fabric was a lovely black stretch wool, probably crepe, that I bought in Mandors in Glasgow when we were there for a wee overnight stay in September. The pattern is rapidly becoming my favourite and has superseded my Ultimate trousers pattern. I love the wide yolk and can see I'll have to add some pockets to them in the future.

There's quite a lot of lycra in this fabric, so much so that I decided not to line them at all and pray the lycra would prevent bagging at the seat and knees. So far so good! 

See? How do you make black trousers interesting? I used the New Look 6035 pattern that I got free with Sew magazine last year and have used once before. I took ages to finish the hems. Isn't that always the way? They were hanging about on the dining room table for weeks on end until I had a tidy-up. Glad I did as I've washed and worn them a few times. Yes, I'm happy to wash wool and I prewashed this fabric before cutting. I always use the Wool cycle on the washing machine, a wool liquid soap and hang them up to dry, nope I don't dry them flat. It's survival of the fittest in my wardrobe!